Hello 18th Century Living History

Image courtesy of Paul Burton

Unlike the 17^th Century, I have no desire to portray a lady of fashion and wealth, which wouldn’t be appropriate on the military camp at the sort of events we’d be involved in. I’m happy to just be an ordinary soldier’s wife.

Photo courtesy of Paul Burton

What to wear 1770s style

It’s widely acknowledged that ordinary working women during the 18^th Century wore what was known as a bedgown or short gown with a petticoat and an apron. Bedgowns were informal jacket type garments, originally worn by ladies of fashion in the morning when they first got up. They were of simple construction, and easy to wear, requiring no assistance by maids to put on. They made the most economical use of the fabric. No wonder they were soon being worn by the ‘common sort’ of women as their everyday attire.

There is a pattern for one such bedgown in Garsault’s ‘L’art du Tailleur’ from the 1760’s. The pattern looks a little odd, and of course, the accompanying instructions are in 18^th Century French. But La Couturiere Pairsienne (actually German) has written a ‘how to’ article about making a nightgown – also known as a ‘Manteau de lit’- using these instructions, helpfully translating the French into English as well.

There’s an extant garment described as a short gown in the Colonial Williamsburg collection (Costume Close Up – Clothing, Construction and Pattern 1750 to 1790). Are bedgowns and short gowns the same thing? Possibly. If they do differ, it appears to be in the cut of the neckline (short gowns are more shaped - square or rounded), and short gowns have flared skirts, bed gowns are pleated over the hips.

18^th Century petticoats are straightforward. They use two widths of fabric sewn up the sides and then the waist is pleated onto tape. This is almost identical to how I make my 17^th Century petticoats, the only difference being the 18^th Century preferred knife pleats to cartridge pleating. And using a striped fabric (very late 18^th Century) means your pleats will be even and no need to measure. The back and front of the waist are sewn to individual tapes, which tie separately, giving the maximum amount of adjustment, and access through the resulting gaps to pockets securely worn underneath.

My patchwork pockets - I love them!

Separate pockets were essential for every woman during the 18^th Century – and possibly before and after. These were tied around the waist securely underneath the outer skirt/petticoat. Pockets could be either single or in pairs. As I’m known to enjoy some patchworking on occasion, I had plenty of small pieces of suitable cotton fabric to make a patchwork pair of pockets. My favourite quilting fabric designer is French General, who’s inspired by anything vintage French, including wallpapers and textiles from old chateaux, and I had several fabrics in my stash which would pass as 18^th Century. My pockets are probably my favourite thing I’ve made. Although no one else sees them, they bring me joy when I wear them – they are so colourful and cheerful. And so practical – I can fit two mobile phones, tissues, lip balm, house and car keys, husband’s wallet and other essential ladies’ bits into them and carry around all day resting on my hips. How did I ever manage without them.

Cloaks were very much in evidence, for all classes of women. Red cloaks were popular and could have large attached hoods, possibly lined in a contrasting fabric - origins of 'Little Red Riding Hood' perhaps? Again, these are not an essential item of kit, but are handy for wet and cold weather, or hanging out around the camp fire in the evenings. But a trusty blanket wrapped round the shoulders is just as effective - and historically accurate as well.